When it comes to sewing projects that demand softness, durability, and a bit of rustic charm, flannel fabric is often the top choice. Whether you’re making cosy pyjamas, reusable baby wipes, a quilt backing, or a tailored winter shirt, selecting the right flannel can dramatically affect your project’s outcome.
But with so many options—cotton, wool, brushed or unbrushed—it’s essential to know what to look for before cutting that first piece.
Understand the Fibre Content
Not all flannel is created equal. The most common types are cotton flannel and wool flannel. Cotton is breathable, soft, and ideal for clothing and blankets, while wool is warmer, more insulating, and better suited for outerwear or structured garments. Always check the fibre content on the bolt label or product description. For most home sewing projects, especially those involving children or bedding, cotton is usually the preferred choice.
Check the Weight and Density
Weight matters. Lightweight flannel shirts and baby clothes, while heavier flannels provide structure for jackets or quilt backings. A good flannel should feel tightly woven with minimal gaps between threads. If you hold it up to the light and can easily see through it, it might not hold up well to repeated washing or wear. Denser weaves also reduce fraying, which can be a major issue in lower-quality flannel.
Decide Between Brushed and Unbrushed
Flannel gets its characteristic softness from brushing, raising the fibres to create a fuzzy surface. Some flannels are brushed on one side, while others are brushed on both. Double-brushed flannel is usually softer and warmer, ideal for pyjamas or throws. Unbrushed flannel, on the other hand, has a smoother, crisper finish that works well for garments where structure is more important than softness.
Pre-wash and Shrinkage Considerations
Flannel tends to shrink, sometimes significantly. Always pre-wash and dry the fabric before you begin sewing. This not only ensures you get accurate sizing for your project but also helps remove any residual chemicals or finishes applied during manufacturing.
Inspect for Pilling and Colour Fastness
Low-quality flannel may pill after just a few washes. Run your fingers across the surface or do a quick rub test to see if fibres come loose easily. Also, darker or printed flannels should be tested for colourfastness, especially if you’re pairing them with lighter fabrics.
Choosing high-quality flannel fabric is about more than softness. It’s a tactile, structural, and technical decision that can elevate your sewing from good to great.
